Joespanova: You may want to modify the lower rear section of your ladder bar to make it adjustable. Call me a wimp but right now I'm afraid to let go of the button. When I take it to the track to get a time on it after the car sits back down even on motor you can hear in the videos and even see it. If there is a way to set the rear end to allow the front end settings to not be so critical I might be able to get this to work without bars. Trying to calm the frontend down. They need to be balanced from front to rear, and the only proper way to do that is to adjust the settings incrementally and then test.
His career began in the car audio industry as a shop manager, eventually working his way into a position at Rockford Fosgate as a product designer. Understanding how the rear end moves gives you adjustment options to dial in your set up for added speed. From my experience on my Hemi, when I had the ladderbar in the top hole, it wheeelied way high, then i lowered it 2 holes and it helped control the wheelie. Raising the ladder bar one hole will make it hit the tire harder.
I think the tires could use some more air in them. The ladders are 5 degrees down and the pinion angle is under 2 degrees. Turning the rod moves the rear left or right depending on your needs. Bickel tells us that wheelie bar height is also directly related to overall bar length. Equalize the ride height with the springs or make them the same. First round of eliminations and it just went off on me. In addition, the leaf springs sit outside the subframe rails, seriously cutting into the wheel well area. Anyone got any good tech articles or advice on Ladder Bar Suspensions? Installing ladder bars is a big task. I wanted 12 psi in the slicks but you know how the first run can go. Using the J-Bar mounting angle to in conjunction with trailing arm angles both up and down and left to right gives you another tool in your arsenal helping you to achieve faster lap times. Good video can be a lot of help. I say start full stiff and work your way down to what works. Once you understand what happens when you launch your car and what it does or doesn't do, you'll have the advantage over your competition because your settings are customized to your vehicle.
The 60ft seems to be best with the wheels off the ground 1 ft to 1. If it turns out it's a preload problem, and if it's driving to the right only a small amount at the launch, but it also drives perfectly straight at the finishline, then it might only need a minor preload adjustment. Join date: 2014-08-21. As a result of these initial forces, you shouldn't attempt to make the car launch straight with four-link pre-load alone. This will help to steer the car in a straight line on the launch. Adjuster should be on the bottom for easy access. Bickel said he prefers rubber wheels with a slight crown, because they tend to leave the most accurate markings. Joined: May/26/2008. The choice for the Royal Scamp is ladder bars. It olso ALWAYS goes to the right when I do the burnout. This increases the load transfer to the rear. Color:"#00FF00"]557" Indy engine 1. Well, I have newer adjusted anything on my racecar, but now I need help!!
Ladder bars help, Loose traction on right side! You can follow Jefferson on Facebook (Jefferson Bryant), Twitter (71Buickfreak), and YouTube (RedDirtRodz). "Once you have found the sweet spot on your car, record the measurements in your chassis log book with and without the river. TU: However... now I'll have to start from scratch (regarding adjustments) when setting the rear end in the car. But if the front tires are "driving" out of the beams as the wheelstand is progressing (over a longer period of time) then adjusting the front shock extension valving tighter-stiffer might help calm the wheelstand a given amount. Another factor is the wheelbase of the race car. From your experiences, did moving the bars up or down, make the car more wheelstand prone? The teams that experiment with the proper three link set up can find the set up that launches their car off the corner with more acceleration to get to the checker first. Your best bet is to start with your front shocks set on the softer side for maximum weight transfer and tighten them incrementally once you see how the car reacts. D) or the rear coil overs don't have the same spring height seat/pedestal adjustment side-to-side.
Wouldnt it be better to have more tire pressure than less? When it comes to trailing arms I try to avoid linkage arrangements that go though center under roll. We re-sub framed the car and frame and added a new engine combo so we have to start all over. The actual height of the wheelie bar is dependent upon several factors.
All of my shop set ups include a rear end that is absolutely square. The engine is either too high, too far back, etc. If I have exhausted my reasonable loose in adjustment ideas I might choose to shorten the RR trailing arm an 1/8" to help cure the loose in condition. The clamp type aluminum brackets allow you to mount the trailing arm left to right mounting location where ever you want. The ladders were at 4 degrees down.
A/W 95 Ultralight Hobbycopter. Hurst390; Thanks for helping me! I am trying to crutch the setup for no bars and make it consistent. But, sudden steering adjustments at high speed can lead to dip and sway as you attempt to get the vehicle back on course.
In your shop you need to spend the time needed to ensure that your rear end is exactly square. And 4 more gremlins.. Hurst390. To help the car turn through rear steer you can run the RR trailing arm uphill a 1/2"- 1" at the front. Rear shocks at 7c and 10r (max is 19). If it's aggressively/violently lifting the front tires straight up-out of the beams hard at the hit then adjusting the front shock extension valving/dampening tighter-stiffer will most likely have little/no effect on calming the wheelstand (too much happening all at once & too little time for valving changes to effect it while the pinion gear is climbing the ring gear). The trick is to balance this so there is very little or no separation or compression of suspension, plenty of traction to keep it hooked, and no monster wheel stand.
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