Something's in the way! Location: This is off the wall but who knows! The front drive shaft mounts fine so at least the front diff. Re: can't get u-joint out of yoke / off rear drive shaft!
2007 Vespa GTS 250 Scooter. Driveshaft wont go into gearbox. I got a extra yoke and beat it driveshaft goes in now but it's leaking trans fluid getting towed tommorow to the trans builder it's his problem it has a billet output shaft it may not work, as some are cnc milled and not broached like factory. But the u-joints and carrier bearings are warn out. I tried a bunch of ways but after an hour or so I gave up and took both driveshafts to my machine shop. In order to replace the center support bearing you will need to remove the rear drive shaft and then drop the center support bearing and front shaft. It's just getting one the right size that's a bit of a pain. The guy in the shop gave us one of those nuts with a blue ring inside and it's causing me some trouble just now.
Don't listen to this guy, he's not even a mechanic. 10-26-2014, 03:44 AM||# 9|. It would work the same way if one tire was on a sheet of ice or was up in the air. The carrier bearing is at least available as a replacement so if you matched the U-Joint up you could re-use the shaft. That's pretty amazing, considering I will get a $20 refund from the O'Reilly u-joint I had, which the shop said was garbage. New u-joint and it was good as new. I have watch a few videos and they all do the same thing you are doing. If a yoke that bottoms out is pulled back out an inch, is the driveshaft too long? The drive shaft is NOS. Been focusing mostly on the transmission, but tonight took a magnifying glass, and looked at the drive shaft teeth, and they are almost certainly the problem... different shapes in places, some are blunted, some sharp. Engine: 1970&92 Cams, both BBC's. When removing the driveshaft, it slipped forward fine so that I could drop it from the rearend. When I went ahead and tightened the bolts and the transfer yoke slide out at least 1/2" and all the trans oil leaked out. So I was able to get the nut connecting the two drive shafts off but I still can't get the rear shaft off of the diff; definitely don't have slots so I will keep trying with the pry bar.
Location: calgary alberta. Surely not enough to be able to hold the shaft up there and pull the yoke out to it. It will seat in then spray some WD40 or what seline, cooking jelly lol to lube the shaft before you reinsert it and you will be good to go. I was remembering it wrong for some reason. Location: Pemberton, New Jersey. Maybe I'll lube it up and give this a try. Not just removing the driveshaft, which is what you are talking about. I have it soaking in PB, but I just can't get them to move. Scares the living daylight out of me in case I take something apart that I can't put back together with my trusty Halfords bargain basement 70 piece tool kit! Location: ON, Canada. Transmission: T-5 Conversion.
28, model a rpu project, |08-20-2015, 11:50 PM||# 10|. Maybe they will see the problem, and get me back on the road! ETA: My next thought is to pull the whole driveshaft assembly out of the car a see what I can see. Location: Outskirts of Pumpkintown, SC. The center bolt you don't need to remove at all unless you are replacing the carrier bearing. This means 95 and up to early 97 model year M3 with manual trans have a 6-bolt shaft. Skip that step and you will not get the u joint out.
Thanks for you input. Fun fact; The rear half of the 6-bolt driveshaft is identical to the Euro 5MT and 6MT rear half. Either pushed forward, gap in the rear or the reverse or held with equal space between the two yokes. Location: Traverse City MI. I have one somewhere on how to drill out rivets on a Bosch washing machine motor and solder in brushes that cost 3 quid, they charge a fortune for a ' reconditioned' motor, which is crap they just give it a clean and replace the brushes that you could do easily if the did not rivet it and if they made brushes that clip in. I'm leaning toward a burr on one of the transmission splines, although I can't see it. And as you discovered, its pretty snug fitting too.
Ft-lbs of Torque on driveshaft bolts? I will put that back on the truck, and then drive it to the shop and let them assess & rework/balance both shafts as needed. Front output shaft seal was unknowingly leaking and now the case is toast. Location: Crown Point, NY and Punta Gorda, FL. I don't have a vice.
Otherwise, when you go to put them back you will have vibration. Location: Albuquerque NM. I wouldn't use a press, you could collapse a yoke. Good luck post what u find out and how u fix it. You can bend of break things very easily on a unibody that way. If you take it off and look you will see the male splines on the drive gear are only 1/4" long and must go to the front. So is the 1/2" gap showing on the transfer yoke normal or do I just need to replace the rear seal? You're probably out of balance and that's why your u-bolts & nuts are loosening. It hasn't moved even the smallest bit. This is why I like the cap style with locking tabs..... 'Perciate the feedback guys. Its weird because I had a driveshaft end slid into it to prevent fluid leaking, and it slid in all the way. But like it says above, if the Speedo Gear is on wrong it won't go in. If there is that much room on the rear then there should not be enough room to get the front shaft in at all.
Always wanted - Details and pictures of M416 Trailer data plates & M151 data plates & body-tags for my research. Location: Kansas, Ottawa. I'm thinking about adding Loc-Tite. The powerpack needs to move back at least.
Should be held in with clips, remove the clips and use a U-Joint press to remove it. Yea I will definitely be getting back under there tomorrow and struggle with it for a few hours. If you do remove the shaft, make sure you stick a tray underneath the gear box to catch any leaking oil (not a lot).
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