A few days in slip 2000 got a lot of it off the baffles, but I think a week will be better. It cleaned bores that I have never been able to clean with thoroughly with other standard cleaning solutions. 270 that fouls moderately but usually comes clean with Butch's Bore Shine and some elbow grease. The Montana Exreme Bore Cleaner is fantastic and my current favorite. If Sweet's (ammonia, for copper) is used and you let sit for 20 minutes and get no green or blue on your patch, the coppers probably out unless you know there are layers and layers of powder and metal fouling. Wipeout and the accelerator do not create "instant" miricles in these flawed rifles during the break in but they do get the job done and allow me to get on with what I need to do. Well, that's it, an anecdotal review only, but that's what you get on the internet. 4- you may need to repeat any of the above. Once most of the fouling is gone, then use a chemical to dissolve the remaining traces of fouling. Anybody recommend a good bore cleaning solvent. I can say without a doubt. I prefer Blue Wonder gel cleaner.
17 barrels for a big-cased. I use wipe out, Butch's Bore Shine and JB bore paste depending upon the amount of dirt. Removed with one cleaning. Change brushes often. A MORE accurate statement would have been: "Many shooters attempt to increase their bore diameter by cleaning the [bleep] out of their firearms instead of mostly removing the carbon fouling. I was amazed at how much material I was able to get out of that bore. Butch's bore shine vs hoppes #9 rifle. Different flavors for different palates. It saved me by doing the work for me. I avoid using solvents that will tackle copper on a bronze brush.
I'd in the past... once... tried some foaming bore cleaner from a local marine supply/ sporting goods store in Homer. Short strokes back and forth through out the barrel. ) Barnes CR-10 is a good Cooper remover but you have to be carefull about leaving it in the bore. Kroil is great at getting under fowling. Hoppes formulation is a petroleum based cleaner whose main ingredient is kerosene. Used Butch's Bore Shine for years and always with copper brushes. John, if I may exploit my ignorance, how do you tell if a cleaner is a water-based ammonia? It appears to have lose 1/10 grain. The gun had a bit of fouling in it, so I filled up the bore with. A Review of Bore Solvents. The patch came out slightly grey, not much gray, about the color of a patch that I would have considered clean.
I repeated it 3 more times waiting 1 hour to. And a 3rd place in the 6 match score agg with a 93. The smoother the bore the less the cleanup. I had a custom barrel and would require 6-8 patches, the first would be black then gray before becoming white.?????????? And does anyone know if it has any effect on blueing or exterior metals? What ingredient attacks the copper?
I'm in the camp as gunwriter Charlie Petty on the subject of the best this and that. Most people worry about copper; they should be worrying about carbon. Originally Posted by reelxprs. If you cant get ahold of JB, I have found that Remington makes a liquid form of the product and it is available at most Wal-Mart's, and it is called "40x bore cleaner. " I have 10 different ones on the shelf and play with them frequently. Well, I have almost finished off my first can. Butch's Bore Shine Bore Cleaning Solvent Large 16oz –. This is available in NAPA stores, and is already mixed. Most modern cleaners are better than Hoppes 9. Hoppes No 9 goes on for 20 pages. It's obvious to me now, after our conversation, that your advise to leave. How do the solvents with no ammonia remove copper? I have used it in my Varmint rifle all of my Black Powder guns my large bore guns, and even the loose change in my pocket.
Fine Bronze wool wrapped in a used brush that you saved after 50 rounds on is simply amazing, and the Hawkeye Bore scope and Teslong says that the fine Bronze wool does not scratch, Krieger, Brux, Lilja, Pac Nor, and Bartline barrels. You still need a brush with Butches to get the powder and carbon out but after that wet patches beat down the copper just fine. You get clean patches because it doesn't work not because it does!! So now all I use is Butch's. I lowered the muzzle about 5 degrees and placed a plastic bag lined waste paper basket under the muzzle to catch drippings. Bore tech vs hoppes. Some say it is more abrasive than JB, and I think that it is not but that it is more concentrated than JB, and a little bit goes a long way.
The Hoppes/Butch's just works on the powder fouling so I use a wet patch, let it soak, dry patch, wet nylon brush a few times (more if I shot it a lot, ) dry patch a couple times, wet patch again and let it soak for a couple hours or even overnight. Now I'm not one to let a rifle barrel stay dirty. The next morning I ran a patch through it and it was just amazing the copper and carbon fouling that was in that barrel. I have tried Sweet's 7. It says that patches are all that is needed. Just wrap it around?
It gives a really nice finish if the speeds are anywhere in the ball park. Pull a NYLON bore brush back through the bore, from muzzle to breech. I just got mine delivered to me today. Thirdly, using Butch's and a brush and elbow grease MAKES black stuff. Offered a challenge. NAGW, but I use mostly Montana Extreme Bore Solvent unless really fouled.
Spread the word I shall. I found Patch Out/Wipe Out & Accelerator, & the online reviews were extremely positive. I also am including a copy of our. I think we have a winner here. The longer it was left in the bore the more effectively and completely it. Also, if you are using Sweets or any other copper cleaner, you don't want to mix it with any kind of oil. Try and get this old rifle back into a condition to use. For shotguns to get plastic wad fouling out, and powder residue I use RGS.
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