Look at this as a last resort, but it will very seldom be the problem. The Johnson sat for 3 years, but. With the scarcity and expense of these old parts, it seems best to just remark the tiller handle base with a felt marking pen. Striped keyway on the flywheel, etc... Check voltage and circuit. You will be amazed that even with motors sitting for years, with new fuel, clean the plugs, and maybe a squirt or two of starting fluid that how many of them will start, maybe not run well, but they will run. 15 hp johnson won't start. Follow this guide to find the cause and solution for a Johnson outboard engine that will not start up. Compression is related here, but does not relate totally because the rings are designed to seal from the top side of the piston. Usually not all are. Cut out 2 large holes, drill (2) 1/4" holes in the bottom center. Replaced them only to find that I forgot the carb gasket, OK, tear the carb off again. The impeller could be old. This motor had blown head gasket on lower cylinder||This motor was smoking excessively & using lots of gas|. If all that does not help, then pull the head off and check/clean any debris out of the water jacket cavities around the cylinders and inside the head.
Many (if not most) of these smaller motors will be used. Solution is to remove and replace the O rings, (however there are 3 major manufacturers of these quick connectors and they all use different O-Rings, along with the fact that most are not identified by any manufactures name (maybe a code number that means nothing to you or me). Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start button. Operation; The principle of 2 cycle operation is that the internal lubrication is supplied by mixing oil into the fuel, (A) which is then sucked from the carburetor, thru the reed (check) valves in the manifold, into the crankcase by the vacuum created by the piston traveling upwards. If it can wobble or move laterally, it WILL change the point gap!
The incoming main line goes as before, directly to the carburetor, some have a Teed. This bolt is again threaded into the base from the inside with not a lot of room to spare, so if you need to remove the handle you may need a 1/4" drive ratchet handle, appropriate socket (3/8"), with a extension and usually a universal joint. If you can come up with any information at all, (possible repairs or attempts to repair) this may help you instead of doing all your own detective work. Ha s the fuel line rubber bulb became so hardened over time to the point it is hard to squeeze? Pictured below is a dissected primer bulb. It was running good when I delivered it to him the second time. If there is a weak or no spark, check the spark plug(s) condition. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start a new. Below on the left photo is a seized early screw that the "protective spring's sleeve" has been chipped away allowing salt debris to be somewhat cleaned up. The flywheel magnet boss wore.
Sometimes this will be enough to pull the jelly sludge thru the carburetor. Johnson 15 hp outboard won't start when hot. On repairing the broken bolts. Once this bolt is removed the. My guess is that these are made so cheaply it is not feasible to repair them. To repair a slightly warped head, this can be done with a good file, but better by using a medium valve grinding compound on a old glass window large enough to allow the read to be moved around on it.
This ratio is governed by the construction of the motor's internal bearings. If this happens, the flywheel can get slid (rotated by centrifugal force) enough to throw the timing magnets off enough to create hard starting or possibly not allow it to even start. And make sure the safety lanyard is installed properly and the stop circuit is not grounded. I am standing back at the motor and he is up at the controls, all the motor would do was roll over, no fire at all. If that does not help, then remove the nut and pull the flywheel, check to see if there is a ridge at the tip inside tapered hole.
If the preceding tests do not allow the motor to start, then check the vent on your your fuel tank's cap. And the drive shaft was rusted so solidly into the pinion gear, that by even placing the shaft in my large lathe, moving the carriage back to where it could apply pressure and someone else beating on the other side with a block with a 4# hammer, nothing would move. Amount of fuel into the carburetor, or manifold to prime the motor. One thing that you may run into on the older motor. I used to use pre-mix in the cylinders on problem motors or just trying to bring a oldie to life, Now I only use this product it is a bit pricy but I have found nothing that works as well. The earlier screens behind the prop, are considerably more prone to become plugged with weeds than the later motors, simply because they have smaller holes. The one most common problem with hard cold starting, if the motor is in reasonably good running condition, can probably be contributed to someone unfamiliar with motors, who just gets into the boat, pulls the starter rope and goes fishing. The size O-Ring that I have found that works is 1/4" ID with a 7/16" OD. D) Is the negative battery cable properly grounded to the motor's base?
I sprayed starter fluid in the carb it started and ran for a few seconds until the starter fluid burned up. So it is a totally pneumatic pulse operating the mechanical diaphragm inside the pump, with no wires or push rods involved. Adjustment here needs to be done with how far you screw the shifting rod into the yoke of the lower unit when the lower unit is off the motor. If I try a day later, it will start right up and do the same thing. Make a template of the bolt pattern, (thin aluminum or heavy paper) mix up a metal type epoxy, (JB Weld), pretty much fill the gouged out hole.
If you still get the suspicion that there is still no/or minimal water flow, look deeper. This will usually be easy to detect in that it will make a mess under the flywheel, namely fuel/oil mix spilling down around the block. In this instance, times have changed for the good, as we now have a better gasoline along with way better outboard oils. The primer bulb should become hard after about 3 or 4 pumps when the carburetor bowl becomes full, the float valve stops the fuel from bypassing, going in to the carburetor float bowl. Here you see the reed valve plate between the manifold and carburetor|. If the piston rings are stuck, compression (and efficiency) will be lower and the crankcase charge will be contaminated. If the points are set off by. A main criteria is that all fuel tanks have to be vented to operate, therefore they have be vented either automatically or manually. When you put it back be sure to grease the splines with waterproof (boat trailer bearing) grease. In reassembling the intermediate shaft (#53), to the. The clutch dogs in the gearcase's transmission are rather large in relationship to some other models.
To ground, killing the motor. Tightly when slight pressure is applied, yet open on the intake. Or if you have a post 87 motor 9. Sometimes it the flywheel nut was not tightened properly, the flywheel will be loose and wobble over time, then become looser, which could lead to the key being sheared off even with the surface of the tapered driveshaft's upper section. I replaced the power pack. Rotated to FAST, the wire is so short that it can partly separate the. 4) bad ground wire connection, which needs to be clean and with no paint where it touches the block under the coil. 109 gear is pinned in a the lower cowling, rotates there against #52 gear. 5hp single cylinder Mercury that has 120#. Are you implying the starter rope will not pull, or it seized, or if it does pull, it won't start, or do you mean it just will not run? Poorly seated reeds, or bad upper or lower crank seals may decrease that. If it is running on just one cylinder it will die when you pull off the spark plug wire that is firing. I would first pull the carburetor, clean all the water out of it. I cleaned the carb and reinstalled.
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