It is at about the height of the top of the oil filter, somewhat more toward the rear of the car, and, unfortunately, even more recessed. With the engine warm and idling, the needle is just left of the first tick, under normal driving conditions, the needle is almost exactly where it used to be with the switch sender. You need a gauge and a light, and I'd recommend a higher oil pressure light switch -- say 20 PSI? FWIW I check my oil once a week when I'm using mine.
The VDO sender doesn't have the same press-on connector that the OEM sender has, so I built a short adapter cable to use. A 6 inch extension is too long to fit, but the 3 is really too short. A Track Dog Racing heat shield keeps under-hood temperatures down. Don't drop things on the terminals or create any conducting path from the positive terminal to the car or negative terminal. Just another solution fitting the gauges. I actually use the oil pressure gauge to measure oil temperature - you can work out when the oil is up to temp by when the pressure is low when it is idling, say at a stop light, at which point you know you can cane it. If you put the head gasket on upside down, everything works just fine - other than the fact that you cover up the oil feed. All these lights are usually connected into the side/panel light circuit. These particular cams were designed by a friend who works at Integral Powertrain after also working at Cosworth.
'Course, I have both an oil temp and oil pressure gauge, plus an idiot light on my bike. If I left the revs from idle to about 1250rpm, the pressure will rise to about 1Bar, but that's not exactly a solution lol. It's a little unnerving, because if you don't get it all sealed then you get the pleasure of pulling the engine out again. I will be doing an oil change (dealer needs to re-look at the car tomorrow due to the CPO paperwork said automatic, its a stick). Take off the two cable plugs behind the cluster, by depressing the catches.
On the track I scan all the gages on every straight (At least officially. On the way home the oil pressure gauge was >75% on the freeway, so I drove it at 55-60 all the way to my uncles place, left the car there, drove home in my TSX from that point. Howardb66: I ended going to the DHL depot to collect out of frustration as they said the next delivery was scheduled for Saturday 28thπ€¬. And having a functioning oil pressure gauge in a sports car is a really nice thing to have. It acts as an indicator of the engine 's overall well-being and as an early-warning system, giving advance notice of any problems so you can investigate the cause before an expensive breakdown occurs. Lost an intake gasket on a long highway run and it started sucking down oil at a seriously alarming rate (like 2 quarts in 200 miles).
I'm doing a bit of an experiment - please check out an updated feed at and let me know what you think. The ECU relies on a lack of signal from the sensor to determine when the oil pressure has dropped below about 7psi. I just came across some information on the net saying that the pressure sensor on models 1995 and onwards is fake. 25lb lightened flywheel installed. April 19, 2007 - The head is here and ready to install. I then pushed the needle in place (slightly) pointing at the "H" tick. The 1990-94 Miatas had a more traditional oil pressure gauge that showed actual oil pressure - that's the big grey sender.
For reference: The Mazda oil pressure switch has a 1/4 NPT male thread. Because these AEMs were kicking around the shop and needed a new home, and this way we don't need new parts. The warning lights are just below the oil pressure gauge. Read and understand all information before you start. I scan the gauge on the straight along with the other gauges. See, the final engine will have a special valve cover. Looks like a neat solution. At the same time the brakes, transmission, differential, and radiator were flushed with new fluid. It's going to use a crank trigger wheel as the primary sensor for engine position. April 18, 2007 - A request for the RSS readers. Integral gauges are lit from one of the panel lights which also illuminate the rest of the instruments, while separate gauges have a small (0. Using the heater hose also meant that the original sensor is undisturbed so less likely to leak. The revs are what cause the oil pump to operate - it pumps faster the more revs you give it, which increases the flow (and by virtue of the oil galleries being a tight system, the pressure). Or, like last night, below the minimum level on one side but seemingly over the full mark on the other.
Oil changed every 10-15 track hours, currently running Mobile One 15w50 full synthetic for better protection in the Texas summers. I see 70+ psi warm cruise regularly, and the light is designed to come on at 2. Can i have some confirmation what's going on? It sits under the oil filter and coolant runs through it. It's not as pretty as in earlier shots, partly because of the camera phone and also because I've been taking shortcuts. It's a pain to get to from all angles.
I had just had the oil changed, and the drain pan plug was loose. I had ordered the adapter kit with the sender from JC Whitney so I used that. It seems the needle on his oil gauge jumps around (from the middle up, rather from the middle down) when he boots it. I forgot the real camera so this is from a camera phone.
Thanks for the heads up UKPenfold. Vindi and others may have spare senders. Howardb66: Halfords online purchasing system is a complete waste of time and money. Where did you fit them gauges?
"Hmm, 18 psi isn't normal for highway cruise, should be 30+, better stop and check on that". The engine temp gauge is nearly as bad. This should be about as good as a Miata head gets. Run the engine and check for leaks. David, if you are planning to take any vacation in the vicinity of Tallahassee, FL, it should be safe there in a few weeks;-) After that, it was relatively easy first to extend my right hand towards the sender from above the car, then to move the 24 mm deep socket and 6 inch locking extension to this hand and finally unscrew the thing using the articulated socket wrench. I used an electronics chip puller, this is a "U" shaped metal piece with the ends of the "U" bent inward (about 1/8") to grip the underside of the chips. A wire is sticking out from the end. It'll look sexier when I'm done, honest.
You could cut the original connector off, but that's hardly professional.
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