1 - 3/8" pipe thread to flare thread converter (will research P/N). 48re Transmission Coolers. 3/8" quick disconnect tool.
You'll notice the flow direction is marked on the old check valve itself. Just remove the hose from the fittings via the hose clamps and place the cooler or filter unit in between the two couplings and pipe the hoses into your current couplings. Trans line hose is reinforced and rated for +150PSI, any less and the hose will eventually swell and split, (probably while you're driving) and then you'll lose fluid and overheat.
The flow for the check valve portion we've removed is from radiator to transmission (the return line). 4l80e Transmission Parts Diagram. The next pic is the connection on the radiator side: It is typically held on with a quick connect fitting and you will need to first pop off the safety connection with a flat head screw driver. The 7/8" wrench should fit on the check valve and the 3/4" should go on the silver connector on the the trans return line. 46re transmission cooler line diagram. First we need 1 ft of hose. The first pic is of the check valve as it sits in the stock truck in the transmission return line from the radiator. The purpose of this check valve is to keep the Torque Converter filled with transmission fluid when the truck is off so the next time you start it, you can take off without waiting for the pump to fill the converter back up. Just use the old check valve unit to judge length before you cut. A razor blade won't work because the trans line is reinforced with steel mesh to keep it from expanding.
Tools needed: 7/8" open end wrench. The coupler in the pic is just a simple 3/8" male-to-male coupler. Harbor Freight has them here. The large coupler was 7/8" on the outside, but the nozzle and flare pieces were 17mm (IIRC), so I just used a crescent wrench as I didn't have a larger metric wrench. The nozzle end will go into the hose and then you'll use the band clamps to secure it. I find the large 15 quart Blitz pans can cover both drips in one pan and work well. Offers the wholesale prices for genuine 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Regular Cab parts. Total price: ~$35 for parts. 48re Transmission Guide & Information. The new fittings will make the whole unit a little longer than the old one, so don't judge rubber tubing to rubber tubing when you cut. The nozzle will slide right into the hose and the band clamp will fit perfectly over the flat portion of the nozzle. Here's a pic of the 3 pieces that go onto the radiator side of the hose (I believe that coupler was 21mm on the outside): And here's a close up pic of the NAPA replacement Quick Connect fitting. Recheck all of the connections. What size are transmission cooler lines. The replacement is a return line with no check valve that replaces the current line without hacking up any of the truck's trans lines or fittings.
2 - hose clamps (NAPA part #5051212). You must be logged in to rate content! You simply slide the disconnect tool over the trans cooler line on the radiator side with the flanges pointing toward the check valve and press the tool into the fitting and then pull the fitting and hose away from the radiator. Tighten up the flare end onto the coupler in the truck and push the quick connect side onto the radiator. It's tiny and once you see it, you'll understand why it's a restriction to the system and how debris can accumulate there, especially is the tranny doesn't see a regular servicing. Trans oil catch pan.
It's the piece just above the tool. Search for: Main Menu. The metal ones are so much faster than wrestling with a cheapo plastic circle that gets chewed up and thrown out. Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic Transmission, 5-Speed Manual Transmission. Parts needed: 2 - 3/8" nozzle to pipe fitting (yes you need 2 of these! ) 1 - 3/8" to 3/8" male-to-male coupler (will research P/N). The tip on the nozzle serves as a catch so that the band clamp (when tightened down) can't slide backward. Parts like Transmission Oil Cooler & Lines are shipped directly from authorized Mopar dealers and backed by the manufacturer's warranty. Just stuff the replacement check valve fitting unit in one end of the hose, clamp it down with a hose clamp and hold it up to the old check valve line before you cut. A flat head screwdriver. The black band around the tool is actually a rubber band and assists you in closing and holding the tool around the pipe you are using it on.
1 - 3/8" to 1/4" reducer coupling (NAPA part #3300X6X4). Just check to make sure that if there is a recommended direction of flow, you pipe it in correctly. Now you can remove the check valve side of the hose. After you remove the check valve line, turn it quick connect side down and let the trans fluid drip out. Deleting the Transmission Check Valve. This setup is also nice if you ever want to add an external cooler or filter to the trans return line. Enjoy your new found peace of mind. 1 - quick disconnect fitting (NAPA part #730-5027).
1 or 2 quarts ATF +4 trans fluid. So why on earth would you want to remove this? Next we need to construct a new replacement hose with fittings. The reason that you can't use just the nozzle piece is because the coupler in the truck on the check valve side is a flare thread which is different from pipe thread. I suggest you leave it on the tool and just shove the disconnect tool straight down onto the radiator pipe. When this happens, the fluid flow can eventually stop and with no way to cool the internals of the transmission, it will overheat and die. Notice it says DODGE/JEEP at the top: The parts guy said he could order a quick connect with a female end that might attached directly to the 3/8" nozzle without the reducer, but I wasn't going to wait a day for a "maybe fits" part. Make sure you place a catch pan under the fitting before you disconnect it as trans fluid will start to drip from the radiator. Here's the replacement hose completely assembled: 1 ft of trans tubing will probably be a little too long for the setup so you can use wire cutters to cut the trans tubing to size.
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