It all sounds to me however that you have a dead battery or low battery problem. I'd like to keep it down to only doing this job twice. If the engine cranks normally, but won't start, it's most likely there is no spark and no fuel injection, if that is the case, check for no power to the ECU and injectors or coilpacks. If yes, make sure you have re-installed that ground connection. If not, you may have to drop the tranny to see why it doesn't stay where it's supposed to. Together, we checked all the grounds for voltage drop; again, there was no voltage drop. Never would have believed it could stop it, but it did. The shade tree method is normally to connect the small and the large posts on the starter, powering the solenoid from the main power cable. I let it run for about 10 seconds to make sure it wasn't just from not having been started or really even moved since the flywheel was taken off but it didn't stop. I don't know what they do, so my first thought/question is if they are shorted or broken further up in the harness from the stress, could that cause a problem of this nature? I hope this isn't the case. Honda Element no-start after clutch installation | Vehicle Service Pros. Using a DVOM, we asked the shop to check voltage drop between engine and body while cranking the engine, but no voltage drop was present. Took her for a spin, new clutch is really nice. I marked the flywheel to make sure that the starter wasn't moving and it for sure wasn't.
Re reported 't know but it won't hurt for you daughter to use your login and post her update here. Try turning the engine by other means. Check the harness to the crankshaft position sensor as it is has a fused wire completing the circuit. The wiring to the sensor was checked; power and ground were good. Problem After Clutch Replacement: Hello, So, I Have Replaced the. I think you may have a two-fer here. I did replace the clutch slave while I was in there, though I thought I had bled it pretty thoroughly. Thankfully the input shaft is undamaged, but it looks like the clutch is pretty much ruined.
My 99 M3 had a bad clutch slave cylinder, so I put it up on stands and figured that with ~140k miles on the clock and with some time on my hands I might as well do the master cylinder and a few other odds and ends as well. I have a VW Polo Playa 1. 5th November 2008, 19:16. i can yes, when I took the pressure plate off to check on my clutch orientation I had to jam a screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel which is outwardly a good sign, though it did not move as freely as it did before. I'm still at a loss as to what the problem could be though. Now I've got all the bolts off of the transmission, but I can only move it about 2/3 of an inch away from the block (pretty even all around, from what I can tell), and it's stuck there. Well for reasons unknown he never came back, and I was left to finish on my own. Form my understanding their defence will now be thrown out? 6 or close, to work. 2 volts and no start. Car won't start after clutch replacement surgery. Seemed like the old one had decent charge, but at least that was an easy fix.... And then disaster. The only thing electrically I'm aware of that might have changed during the clutch job is the wiring on top of the transmission.
If they are dry, and there is no raw fuel smell at the exhaust while cranking, then there is no fuel being injected, and probably no spark either, because there is no power to the injectors or coilpacks and ECU. Thank you all in advance. My best guess is that the starter is somehow FUBARed internally in some way that is holding the flywheel in place while still allowing the moving bits of the starter to move, but I don't know nearly enough about the miata's starter to have any idea if that's even possible. Visually the seal looks fine, so I don't think that I damaged it somehow. Car won't start after clutch & gearbox replacement - Garage services. It's Always worth a bit of looking over the work for missed connections, loose bolts and general fuzzy headedness, which happens to everyone. Both the engine and transmission are independently supported from beneath.
BankFodder posted a post in a topic, - Jenny Kleeman and Luke Jones with Times Radio Breakfast Times Radio The Times and The Sunday 3. I would try this again, but am concerned that if something is mechanically jammed that I could break the starter or the ring gear on the flywheel. Pushing the car in it's highest gear is likely the safest way to test for a free engine. I replaced both cylinders and just see very little movement from the push rod. Car won't start after clutch replacement tool. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. If the ECU has power, but not the injectors and or coilpacks, the ECU will be actuating the ground circuits for each coilpack and each injector, but since there is no + BATT to the injectors and or coilpacks, there won't be any fuel injection or spark even though the ECU is grounding the the circuits normally. Last edited by mlytle; 03-24-2020 at 05:43 PM. I should be able to take a look tomorrow and at least try to turn the engine by hand as a test. PEOPLE pushing, not other machines, is my suggestion. Hands may work with patience and strength. Still pretty incredible.
It sounds like the cable is out of adjustment, preventing the clutch pedal from disengaging the clutch plate from the flywheel. Get back and talk about the symptoms and things you've tried until something someone suggests fixes the car? What the hell did I do?!?!? The starter makes that noise you get if you accidentally start the car when it's already started and the car doesn't start. Proper voltage; clean, tight battery terminals; and good fuses are basic. Thanks for all the replies everyone. Got the rear main seal replaced, scrutinized the back of the engine for other possible sources of leaks or for signs of abrasion or anything to explain the metal on metal sound and found none. I did try to remove the fuse box but was only able to get it loose and I zipped tide it up near the cowl. You DO need to make sure the clutch fork is in the right place. Afterwards I looked under the car and the rear main seal must have given out because it was positively streaming oil from there, something it did not do before the clutch job, and something I didn't touch during the job.
The clutch fork is very hard to move by hand. That leaves electrical issues. While doing so I also replaced the clutch and had the flywheel resurfaced. I'll have to order a new one. I bypass that switch on all my cars. Inspection of the main ground cable showed it to be connected at the wrong location; also, a mass of electrical tape was wrapped around the middle of the cable.
Your happy as a clam.. The vehicle was a 2005 Honda Element that would not start after a clutch replacement. 29th October 2008, 23:27. Sorry, typo - I meant PPF! All of these are powered by the engine management fuses.
I had to redo the TB, it ran lousy, a notch off UGH, but I then started it up and it ran rough (always does when she sits) and she eventually, in 30 seconds, she smoothed out, happy Miata and happy owner. The old guy who works on my cars and hides my tools oftens does things like installing the clutch wrong.... 5th November 2008, 18:34. 31st October 2008, 12:56. I did turn the input shaft and it rotates easily by hand (not so easily as to indicate damage), and the transmission is in neutral for sure this time, which I will re-check when it all goes back together. Same thing, it almost sounds like starting a car that's already started. I would say it is safe as long as everything on the engine is supported properly. Any suggestions for troubleshooting where the electrical problem is would be great. 21st November 2008, 20:10.
When unplugging the sensor, the engine should not start at all. The two gears at once thing, I'm not exactly sure what that means or how it would be possible, but I was assuming that the car was in first gear when the transmission was installed, and since the input shaft would have been pressing the clutch into the flywheel very very hard, that it was just unable to go into any other gear except for fifth because there wasn't enough leverage to rotate the engine. Last resort I took my truck's battery and installed it in the miata and the starter worked great. Is it safe to start the car without the transmission and clutch attached just to find out for certain whether this is related to the transmission/clutch or something else? I can rock the transmission from side to side, but can't seem to pull or pry it further back.
I tried with a magnet and with every other thing I could improvise, but I couldn't fish out all of the parts that ejected themselves into the bell housing. Seemed like the problem was found, a faulty sensor. You missed the socket, or the ball fell out. A loud click and nothing afterwards meant a bad starter for me. The sensors are for the ECU's engine speed and gear selected information, the center diff is not controlled by any electronics, it is 100 percent mechanical only.
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